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Yarrow - White Seeds (Achillea millefolium) - Native Wildflower

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Classic Native White Yarrow - Timeless Garden Essential

Achillea millefolium, commonly known as White Yarrow or Common Yarrow, is a beloved native perennial that brings timeless beauty and exceptional versatility to your garden. This hardy wildflower produces flat-topped clusters of pristine white flowers from late spring through fall, creating elegant displays that attract butterflies, bees, and beneficial insects while providing months of continuous blooms for cutting gardens.

Outstanding Features:

  • Extended Blooming: Flowers continuously from May through October with deadheading
  • Drought Champion: Extremely drought tolerant once established with deep root system
  • Pollinator Magnet: Attracts butterflies, bees, and beneficial insects
  • Cut Flower Excellence: Long-lasting stems perfect for fresh and dried arrangements
  • Medicinal Heritage: Traditional healing plant used for centuries

Growing Information:

Height: 1-3 feet | Spread: 1-2 feet | Sun: Full sun to partial shade | Soil: Well-draining, adaptable to poor soils | Zones: 3-9

Planting Guide: Direct sow in spring or fall. Seeds need light to germinate - barely cover with soil. Thrives in poor soils and becomes more fragrant when stressed by drought.

Create a classic cottage garden centerpiece while supporting native pollinators with this versatile wildflower that bridges ornamental beauty with practical benefits for both garden and home.

Height 1-3 ft
Light requirements Full Sun 6+ hours of direct sunlight daily Part Sun 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily Part Shade 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily Shade Under 4 hours of direct sunlight daily Full Shade 0-3 hours of sunlight daily, preferably morning sun. Can be filtered (dappled) light to deep shade Dappled Light Soft, shifting pattern of sunlight and shade when sunlight filters through the leaves Full Sun
Water Low
Bloom Time Summer
Stratification Not required
Soil Well-drained, adaptable
Attracts Bees, Butterflies, Beneficial Insects

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

Indoor Planting

Timing: Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost in your area.

Seeds: Sow seeds on the surface of a well-draining seed-starting mix. Yarrow seeds require light to germinate, so do not cover them with soil.  

Moisture: Gently mist the soil surface to keep it moist.

Temperature: Maintain a warm temperature of 65-75°F (18-24°C).

Light: Provide bright, indirect light. A grow light can be helpful.

Germination: Germination typically occurs within 10-21 days.

Transplanting: Once seedlings have developed 2-3 true leaves, transplant them into individual pots.

Hardening Off: Gradually acclimate seedlings to outdoor conditions by placing them outdoors for short periods, increasing the time gradually over 7-10 days.  

Outdoor Planting

Timing: Direct sow seeds outdoors after the last frost has passed and soil temperatures have warmed to at least 60°F (15°C).

Site Selection: Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil. Yarrow tolerates a variety of soil types but prefers dry conditions.  

Soil Preparation: Prepare the soil by removing weeds and loosening the top few inches.

Planting: Broadcast seeds evenly over the prepared soil surface. Lightly press the seeds into the soil.

Spacing: Thin seedlings to 12-18 inches apart once they have established themselves.

Watering: Water gently and consistently until seedlings are established. Once established, yarrow is drought-tolerant.  

General Care

Watering: Water deeply and infrequently. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.

Fertilizing: Yarrow is a low-maintenance plant and does not require fertilization.  

Deadheading: Regularly remove spent flowers to encourage continuous blooming.  

Pests and Diseases: Yarrow is generally pest- and disease-resistant.  

Note: Yarrow can be a vigorous self-seeder, so it's best to plant it in an area where it can spread freely or to deadhead spent flowers before they go to seed if you wish to control its spread

White Yarrow Seeds - Native Achillea Millefolium | Drought-Tolerant Cottage Garden Wildflower
Achillea millefolium
Yarrow White

Native Plant Map

Dark Green indicates the plant is native within the state, yellow rare, the lime green indicates where the plant is native and seen more within a state.

Map Credits BONAP©2024

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Frequently asked questions

Why didn't my seeds germinate?

Most of the time, the seeds aren't dead. They're waiting. Many native wildflowers have built-in dormancy that keeps them from sprouting until they've been through a winter. If they skip that cold, moist period, they can sit in the soil and do nothing. Other common causes:

  • Planted too deep. Many native seeds are tiny and need light to germinate. Press them onto the soil surface instead of burying them.
  • The soil dried out. Seeds need steady moisture for the first few weeks after they start to wake up.
  • Not enough time. Some natives sprout within weeks. Others take a full season or longer, and a few come up the following spring.
  • Competition. Weeds and turf grass can crowd out seedlings before you notice them.

If your seeds haven't come up, don't dig up or till the area. Mark the spot, keep the weeds down, and give it another season. Many "failed" plantings fill in the next spring.

When is the best time to plant native seeds?

For most native wildflowers, late fall through early winter is the best time. Sowing then copies what happens in nature: the seeds drop in autumn, go through winter cold and moisture, and sprout when the soil warms in spring. Plant after your first hard frost, so the seeds don't sprout early and get killed by the cold.

If you miss fall, you can still plant in spring. Seeds that need a cold period will do better if you cold stratify them first. Mix them with damp sand or vermiculite, seal them in a labeled bag, and keep them in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 days before sowing. Check each seed's product page or packet QR code for its own instructions, since needs vary by species.

Why aren't my native plants blooming in the first year?

That's normal. Most native perennials put their first year or two into building deep roots, not flowers. Those roots are what make native plants tough, drought-tolerant, and long-lived once they're established. A common rule of thumb is "first year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap." Be patient, keep weeds under control, and let the plants settle in. The blooms are worth the wait.

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